Idan Cohen at the Mercedes Fashion Week NY

Badgley Mischka at Mercedes Fashion Week.

A New Chapter for Oscar de la Renta Begins With Baby Steps!

And so a page was turned.

Tuesday evening, as the sun set over Bryant Park, the British designer Peter Copping made his debut as creative director of Oscar de la Renta. Long before the official show time of 6:30 p.m., the Town Cars had begun to pull up at the entrance, their fur-clad occupants spilling out in anticipation.

Few designers on the Fashion Week schedule had been as much a part of the social and celebrity fabric of the city as was Mr. de la Renta, who died last October after anointing Mr. Copping his heir, and it seemed half of New York took the elevator up to the 25th floor of 11 West 42nd Street to shoehorn their way onto already-packed benches to see what would happen next.

Mica Ertegun and Mercedes Bass were

 there, squished in next to Annette de la Renta, Mr. de la Renta’s widow. So was Nancy Kissinger. Taylor Swift, whom Mr. de la Renta had dressed for the Met ball last year, was across the way, next to the model Karlie Kloss and Eliza Bolen, Mr. de la Renta’s stepdaughter, who almost ended up on the lap of the man next to her, there was so little room.

“In this, my first collection, I hope to honor Oscar’s legacy and also to start a new chapter for the house,” read the note from Mr. Copping, left in a folder on every place.

In 55 looks, he achieved the first aim, and began to inch his way toward the second.

From the opening knee-length jet-embroidered black coat over an ivory crepe dress, a style synonymous with Mrs. de la Renta, to the tweed skirt suits, the color-block mink coats, frilly cocktail dresses and full-bore red-carpet entrance-makers — even the hair twisted up into a neat chignon — this was a sartorial treatise conceived entirely in the vernacular of the house.

Pantone Color Report Fall 2015

Lee Eiseman talks Fall 2015

 Juxtaposition of color from opposite sides of the spectrum emphasizes poise and confidence on the runway. The Fall 2015 palette is rooted in multi-faceted, androgynous colors that can be worn to portray effortless sophistication across men’s and women’s fashion; it is the first time we are seeing a truly unisex color palette. 

Leatrice Eiseman

Executive Director, Pantone Color Institute®

This season displays an umbrella of accord that weaves earthy neutrals with a range of bold color statements and patterns to reflect a landscape of hope, fun, fantasy and all things natural. The colors are evocative of a love for nature and a timeless appreciation for warmth and security, which are conveyed through naturally inspired colors that remind us of things that are real and protective.

This Fall, designers’ pay homage to progressive moments in American history – from the seductive ‘20s to the bohemian hippie and modernists of the ‘60s and ‘70s – while stringing together an affection for colors and styling that are innately easy to wear by both men and women.

"Juxtaposition of color from opposite sides of the spectrum emphasizes poise and confidence on the runway,” said Leatrice Eiseman, executive director of the Pantone Color Institute. "The Fall 2015 palette is rooted in multi-faceted, androgynous colors that can be worn to portray effortless sophistication across men’s and women’s fashion; it is the first time we are seeing a truly unisex color palette."

WOMEN’S AND MEN’S PALETTES

There is one major distinction in the colors this season: A grand shift towards an evolving color palette that is not reliant on color distinctions typically assigned to each gender. This Fall, designers look to sartorial styling and fabrics to define both a masculine and feminine interpretation of hues and color combinations.

The importance of neutrals continues to evolve with Desert Sage, a cool and soothing greenish-gray that serves as the ideal neutral across the Fall 2015 palette. Timeless and unobtrusive, yet powerful enough to make a statement on its own, Desert Sage speaks to the feeling of naturally inspired colors that remind us of things that are real and not invented.

Reminiscent of the sky on a gray, overcast day, Stormy Weather is dependable, cool and above all, constant. Implying quality and luxury, it is a powerful blue-gray that is strong, protective and enduring. Just as the sun comes out after stormy weather to bring us cheer and a glimmer of hope, Oak Buff is a mellow, comforting and warming shade that brings good feelings. One of nature’s many illustrious shades, the golden-yellow Oak Buff acts to nurture and comfort. Combine Desert Sage, Stormy Weather and Oak Buff for a look inspired by the flora and fauna of Fall.

An olive green once thought of as strictly safari or military, Dried Herb is elevated this season to be sophisticated and chic. Closely related to nature, Dried Herb is an organic shade redolent of nature’s earthy fragrances. Interesting on its own and a wonderful contrast to other hues, Marsala is a winey red-brown that adds finesse and savoir faire to the palette. Rich and robust, Marsala incorporates the warmth and richness of a tastefully fulfilling meal, while its grounding red-brown roots point to a sophisticated, natural earthiness. A lush and elegant teal, Biscay Bay splashes up against more heated tones with its cool touch, combining the serene qualities of blue with the invigorating aspects of green. This cool and confident tone inspires thoughts of soothing tropical waters, transporting us to a place that is pleasant and inviting.

A nod to the ‘60s and ‘70s, Cadmium Orange evokes a sentiment of optimism, fun and fantasy. Both playful and sophisticated in its appeal, Cadmium Orange is a warm, welcoming and subtly dramatic hue that is striking enough to stand on its own or act as a bold contrast. A play on the ‘60s with a twist of today, luxurious Cashmere Rose is a tactile and soft pink hue that renders exactly what it promises. Cultivated in its richness, Cashmere Rose displays a gently persuasive and composed pink that is more upscale than downtown. Both men and women can weave Cadmium Orange and Cashmere Rose with Desert Sage for a bold mix of bright, earthy inspiration.

Thoughtful, contemplative and composed, Reflecting Pond is a cooling blue that adds dimension and intrigue to the Top 10. Conveying a message of credibility, Reflecting Pond is a serious shade that speaks to the need for stability and security. Indicative of our affection for color, Amethyst Orchid is the jewel in the crown of the Fall 2015 palette. Intriguing, vibrant and somewhat sensual, this enigmatic shade is an extraordinary hue that is unique, bold, creative and exciting.

In addition to traditional clothing and styling, Fall 2015 colors are an effortless fit for beauty. Layer Cadmium Orange, Cashmere Rose and Amethyst Orchid for an exotic eye shadow look, or Desert Sage and Oak Buff for a softer, more natural appearance. Add Dried Herb to nearly any combination for a bit more depth and interest. Biscay Bay provides a sprinkle of coolness to warm undertones or adds a harmonizing and subtle touch to neutrals such as Desert Sage and Dried Herb. Highlight natural tones with a soft and subtle splash of playful Cashmere Rose and introduce sophisticated Marsala for an appealing and enticing vibe.

For more than 20 years, Pantone, the global authority on color, has surveyed the designers of New York Fashion Week and beyond to bring you the season’s most important color trends. This report previews the most prominent hues for Fall 2015.

The top ten colors for men’s and women’s fashion for Fall 2015 are:

PANTONE 18-4214 Stormy Weather

PANTONE 16-1144 Oak Buff

PANTONE 17-0627 Dried Herb

PANTONE 18-1438 Marsala

PANTONE 18-4726 Biscay Bay

PANTONE 15-1340 Cadmium Orange

PANTONE 16-2215 Cashmere Rose

PANTONE 16-0110 Desert Sage

PANTONE 19-4326 Reflecting Pond

PANTONE 17-3628 Amethyst Orchid

What to Expect on Day 7 of Fashion Week?

Homestretch, fans!

It’s Day 7 of Fashion Week — soon to be renamed Frozen Fashion Week — but New York is still going strong. Thank goodness for Michael Kors. Even in his fall collections, the perma-tanned designer is known for bringing in a little sun. He’ll start the day off at 10 a.m.

Where to go from there? To playtime at Jeremy Scott — whose show this season is called “Dolly Pattern,” spelled out on its invitation with kiddie alphabet blocks — or sterner stuff at Jason Wu’s latest collection for Boss.

Do you take your fashion elegant and aisle ready? Georgina Chapman and Keren Craig’s latest Marchesa frocks, at 5 p.m., should suit you fine. Or maybe pop and colorful is more your style? For you, Alexis Bittar. The jeweler is celebrating 25 years of working in Lucite tonight with a presentation of his latest, and with a little help from his friends. He commissioned the artists Mickalene Thomas, Natasha Law, Cordy Ryman and Juliette Losq to create their own works in the material, to be auctioned off in support of the Lesbian, Gay, Bisexual & Transgender Community Center. (Not invited to the presentation? You can still bid, online.)

The end is drawing near, but not before one of the week’s most anticipated shows: Proenza Schouler, which hits the runway tonight at 8. Anyone who hasn’t frozen solid by then will repair to Miu Miu, which is making an unusual cameo on the New York Fashion Week party schedule, not with a collection but with a film: the ninth and latest in its “Women’s Tales” series, by the Italian filmmaker Alice Rohrwacher.

-- New York Times